First and foremost, I will really recommend visiting a
dermatologist before trying any of the higher concentration of the ingredients mentioned
below.
With that been said, I would like to introduce the
chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliants are skin care products that are
applied to the skin to help dissolve away extra dead cells that have
accumulated that should have fallen off long ago. They work by chemically
dissolving the glue between those cells. You see, your skin cells are a little
bit like a brick wall, where the bricks are the skin cells and the mortar
holding the bricks together is like the glue between the skin cells, and the
chemical exfoliants dissolve either the glue, so the cells fall apart and fall
off, or it actually dissolves the cells by themselves. These are helpful in treating
major skin problems like Open pores, Acne, scaring and hyperpigmention. The most important types of chemical
exfoliants are Glycolic acid and Salicylic acid. Lower percentage concentration
of these “acids” can be applied on regular basis and are outstanding in
treating all major skin issues. Higher concentrations are used by the
dermatologists in their offices as
chemical peels.
The most Important Active Ingredients to look for in skin care products while
fighting Open Pores, Scaring, Hyperpigmentation, Acne, BlackHeads and
WhiteHeads are
- Glycolic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
- Benzyl Peroxide
- Hydroquinone
First three of them are excellent exfoliators . Esp.
first two are the very helpful to all skin types and can solve most skin
related issuestreatment of fine
wrinkles, areas of dryness, uneven pigmentation and acne. Benzyl Peroxide is an exfoliator, Antibacteria (in a
sense), and a bleach. Hydroquinone is used for depigmentaion.
Glycolic
Acid:
Glycolic
acid is AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid). Glycolic is water soluble, it’s very
effective at gently and smoothly dissolving the excess dead cells on the
surface of the epidermis. Glycolic acid is used to improve the skin's
appearance and texture. It reduces wrinkles, acne scarring, open pores and
hyperpigmentation and improves many other skin conditions.
Once
applied, glycolic acid reacts with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening
the binding properties of the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together.
This allows the dead cells to be exfoliated, exposing live skin cells. By
removing the dead cells, we increase the cell turnover and it reduces the
appearance of scars and pigmentation.
Glycolic
acid is available in various forms like Face wash, ointments and peels. Its
strength varies from 2% to 70%. The milder strengths are available in
over-the-counter products while higher percentages are used by dermatologist in
their offices as chemical peels.
Salicylic
Acid:
Salicylic
acid, the most common BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), is lipid or fat soluble so it
can penetrate deeper into the epidermis and exfoliate slightly below the
surface of the epidermis. It is a little more brittle; it has a narrower
therapeutic range because it only becomes effective at about 1 ½ or 2 percent
it tends to be a little irritating. However, salicylic acid is the old
workhorse for the treatment of all types of acne (including blackheads and
whiteheads) and open pores.
Lower
percentages of Salicylic acid works best in conjugation with Glycolic acid, as
glycolic acid exfoliates the dead cells, so it’s easy for salicylic acid to
penetrate deeper in the pores and unclog them.
Benzyl
Peroxide:
It
helps removing clogging dead cells which contribute to causing both white heads
and black head. As an exfoliant it removes the oil, dead cells and clogs, after
they form. It also helps healing all the inflammatory acne by increasing the
turnover of the cells on top of the pimples. Benzyl Peroxide has antibacterial
activity against acne causing bacteria. P. acne, the acne causing bacteria is
an anaerobic (which means it needs an oxygen free environment to grow and
multiply). But the oxygen that benzyl peroxide makes inhibits P.Acne’s ability
to cause pus pimples.
At
concentration of 2.5% to 10% it can be used as leave on spot treatment to heal
individual pimples. It can be used as a preventive treatment when used in a
cleanser.
Benzyl
peroxide, because it’s a peroxide have bleaching properties, it can bleach
certain colored hair and certain colored pillowcases, so one needs to be a
little careful.
Hydroquinone:
Hydroquinone is often called a skin “bleach” but it
really doesn’t bleach skin, when you put it on your skin it doesn't dissolve
pigment, hydroquinone is really a very effective ingredient at making the
bodies pigment cells, the melanocyte, stop making new brown pigment. So, it doesn’t
really drive the old pigment away, in a condition where you’re making too much
pigment it just stops the body from making excess brown pigment. If you want
the brown pigment you already have to go away, that has to come off the skin as
the skin cells that have the extra pigment fall off. That naturally occurs on
the twenty-eighth day of any skin cells life and that’s called exfoliation and
you can actually accelerate exfoliation with glycolic acid and retinoids and
make those cells come off sooner to help take away the darkness. Hydroquinone
is available over the counter at 2% and by prescription up to 4% and when it’s
used as directed it’s a very safe and effective way of helping reduce excess
pigmentation.
Precautions:
- Consult a dermatologist before using any skincare product.
- Patch test to check for allergies.
- Skin irritation, mild stinging, redness, flaking, and dryness can be caused.
- If any of the above stated problems increases immediately wash the product and apply a calamine lotion and consult a doctor.
- Sun sensitivity is one major effect of these. Sun screen use is a must.
- Don’t use for more than two weeks in continuation. After two weeks take a break for two weeks and can be reused later.
- Don’t apply on cuts and open wounds.
- Don’t apply near eye and mouth.
Concentrations and Reactions:
- Glycolic acid and Salicylic acid are generally safe, can cause some flaking or mild flushing. Sunscreen use is a must. Starting concentration for Glycolic can be from 2% and can be taken upto 10-12%. For Salicylic 2-2.5% are ideal for use, if tolerated can be used upto 12%.
- Benzoyl peroxide may cause redness or irritation when first applied to skin, though the skin does become acclimated to it. Start with 2.5 % concentration, and then move upto 5% and then 10%. Benzoyl peroxide may cause dryness of skin; you can remedy this effect by using moisturizing facial products. It may also cause reddening of the skin, which can also be alleviated by calamine lotion. It is a powerful bleaching agent that can leave stains on your clothing, towels, and sheets. Be sure the benzoyl peroxide is completely dry on your skin, before it comes into contact with anything else. It may also bleach your hair, so keep your hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes from making contact with the acne product. Benzyl peroxide works best in conjugation with glycolic acid. Sunscreen use is a must.
- Hydroquinone like most other skin care ingredients can under some circumstances cause a little bit of irritation and if that happens if you stop using it the irritation goes away. Used best with glycolic acid, which accelerates exfoliation process of the darker skin cells. Sunscreen use is a must.
Afterword:
These chemicals are generally very safe effective treatments. These are extensively used in the skincare products available over the counter. Just a little awareness and time is needed to understand these miraculous products. always read ingredients list before buying any product.
List of products and a proper skin care regime will be in another post.
Stay Beautiful :)
Shweta
